HISTORY OF MANTUAN MOSTARDA

How is mostarda produced?
How is mostarda produced? The fruit is harvested when it reaches the right level of ripeness. It is then washed, peeled, sliced and left to soak in lemon juice and sugar. During the 24-hour soaking period, a sugary solution is formed. This is collected, brought to the boil and poured over the fruit. When candying fruit, a standard physical process takes place. The water in the fruit is transferred to the sugary solution in which it is immersed, whereas the sugar from the latter passes into the fruit. This procedure must be repeated for 2 or 3 days in a row. It allows the fruit to keep its volume and firmness, as well as its taste and aroma. Once this procedure is complete, the fruit and juice are blanched. This is usually done for around 20 minutes, to ensure that the fruit is not overcooked. However, the cooking times can be altered according to taste. Mostarda that is cooked for less time is lighter coloured and has more of a crunch to it, whereas longer cooking times give a darker, sweeter product.
It is left to chill, mustard is added and it is then packaged. The sensorial intensity given by the mustard naturally decreases over time even if the container is not opened. An important process for mostarda is resting. The fruit rests between one phase and the next, and the mostarda itself also needs to undergo a rest period before being consumed.

What is mustard?
The mustard plant is originally from Asia. It is part of the brassicaceae family, whose fruits were already known and appreciated in China three thousand years before Christ.
In the Mediterranean Basin its four varieties can be found: white mustard, brown mustard, black mustard and wild mustard. The plant can grow up to two metres high. It has yellow flowers and bright green foliage. In the month of July it produces numerous pod-shaped fruits which contain the seeds. Mustard is currently grown on an industrial scale, in particular in France and Germany. The seeds are sown in May and the plants produce their fruit two months later, at the same time regenerating the land and helping to restore oxygen in the soil. The ground seeds have an intense, pungent aroma and a bitter, prickly taste. They produce the hot feeling typical of spicy food and give an unmistakeable taste to cuisine.

What is the difference between mustard and mostarda?
The terms used can lead to some confusion. The English word "mustard" and the French "moutarde" are used to describe the plant, the seeds and the resulting sauces.
The Italian term "mostarda" is the exception. It is a piquant product containing mustard flavouring. The name comes from the Latin word "mustum" (meaning "must"), as wine must was a key ingredient in some sauces.
The modern day Italian mostarda consists of candied fruit in syrup with varying amounts of mustard flavouring.

Mostarda Mantovana: A short history
The term "mostarda" comes from the Latin "mustum ardens", meaning "burning grape must". It is a pungent food containing ground mustard seeds. The origins of mostarda can be dated back to the 14th century. It was initially a luxury good. Mention of it can be found in certain documents of the Gonzaga family, the rulers of Mantua, which state that it was served at their table.
Thanks to the greater availability of sugar and mustard, it became popular among the general public from the 17th century. The peasant families of Northern Italy ate large amounts of it, mainly around the Christmas period. This traditional product has risked extinction over recent years.
However, it has been revived and it is now celebrated. It is included in most typical local menus as an accompaniment for hors d'oeuvres or main courses, or in a contrasting, complementary pairing with cheese.